Which of the following statements is true about shallow waves?

Prepare for the Science Olympiad Dynamic Planet Oceanography Test with detailed quizzes, flashcards, and explanations. Get ready to excel in your exam!

The statement about shallow waves that is true relates to their interaction with the ocean bottom. Shallow waves, defined as waves moving through water that is less than 1/20th of their wavelength, are influenced by the bottom topography of the ocean. This means that as these waves approach shallower waters, their speed decreases, and their height increases due to the interaction with the seafloor. Consequently, the wave characteristics change significantly as they transition from deep to shallow water.

In contrast, the other statements do not accurately describe shallow waves. The wavelength mentioned in the first statement is not a defining characteristic of shallow waves; instead, they can have a variety of wavelengths. The second statement mistakenly suggests that shallow waves move through deep water, which contradicts the definition of shallow waves. Finally, the notion that they are the first waves to form in the ocean is not inherently true, as various types of waves can form under different conditions and at different stages.

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